Yunnan Er (2): Gorgeish

After welcoming the Chinese New Year with a plethora of people and fireworks in Lijiang, we took our travels to a more peaceful locale.  60 km north of Lijiang is one of the most spectacular places Emily or I have ever traveled: Tiger Leaping Gorge.  The jade colored water of the Yangtze River slices 17 km between the 17,000 + ft Haba mountain and the 18,000+ ft Jade Dragon Snow Mountain creating a startlingly beautiful World Heritage Site.  It is a popular destination for Chinese and international tourists and outdoor enthusiasts.

The full details of our epic adventure are too numerous to include here.  What will follow is a list of random occurrences and thoughts we experienced.

• We were off to a rough start when our van driver dropped us off 20 km away from the beginning of the LTG trail.
• By 11:00 we finally began hiking after cramming into another van with 3 other Chinese men that dropped us off at the beginning of the trail.
• The paved road quickly turned into a maze of goat and foot paths leaving us to fight our way through brush, brambles, and bushes before locating the actual trail.

• Altitude sickness effected Erica, and hunger from skipping breakfast turned attitudes sour.
• We arrived at a house on a ridge where an old woman took advantage of tired unprepared hikers selling outrageously priced fruit, water, snacks and the local marijuana variation.
• At this same location we were shown an accurate map which included the "28 bends" the most intense part of the LTG which our map failed to make note of.
• The gorgeous view from the top of the "28 bends" began to improve moods.
• An enterprising Naxi (the local minority group) man charged 8 yuan to take a picture from a very scenic overlook.  This was land he did not own.  "Picture, 8 yuan...be careful"
• 3:30 we reached the first of two villages along the trail and sat down for a well deserved lunch.
• We finally reached our unplanned stopping point, The Halfway Hostel.  It is by far the most beautiful hostel I (Carl) have ever stayed in.  Beds were about 5 dollars and the views were breathtaking.  Hot showers were a welcome treat.
• Sitting on "Inspiration Terrace" a large group of foreign travelers from France, England, New Zealand, South Korea, Australia, and the US assembled. Great discussions about traveling adventures, dinner.

• Sleep was little due to a chorus of snoring led by a cheery, rather mysterious Frenchman named Colin.
• Breakfast was delicious, a hybrid crepe pancake covered in fruit, honey, chocolate, nuts or some combination of the four.
• Back on trail in shorts and t-shirts!! but sore from yesterdays efforts we were treated to the sight of several waterfalls and improving views of the Yangtze below.
• The downhill climb began Sunny struggled to stay on her feet in her fake converse all stars.
• We could hardly believe it but the trail to the bottom of TLG was sketchier than the previous trail.
• Tolls along the trail had to be paid to local families who "maintained" the trails.
• Views from the rock that the Tiger Leapt from were amazing (especially for an ex-raft guide, apparently the gorge has only successfully been navigated once)
• The way up included climbing over poorly built bridges and a 20 m ladder which quickly became the most frightening vertical climb I have ever ventured on.
• After climbing out of the gorge we sat down for a delicious meal at Tina's hostel.  Emily had the Naxi pisa (see pic)
• A van and mini bus ride dropped us off in Lijiang allowing us to catch a train to Kunming that evening.